So, now our local pool supply recommended switching over from Trichlor to Calcium Hypochlorite, which doesn't have Cyanuric Acid.

Trichloroisocyanuric acid is an organic compound with the formula (C₃Cl₃N₃O₃). It is used as an industrial disinfectant, bleaching agent and a reagent in organic synthesis.^[1][2][3] This white crystalline powder, which has a strong 'chlorine odour,' is sometimes sold in tablet or granule form for domestic and industrial use. Salts of trichloroisocyanuric acid are known as trichloroisocyanurates.

Synthesis[edit]

Trichloroisocyanuric acid is prepared from cyanuric acid via a reaction with chlorine gas and sodium hydroxide.^[4]

Applications[edit]

The compound is a disinfectant, algicide and bactericide mainly for swimming pools and dyestuffs, and is also used as a bleaching agent in the textile industry. It is widely used in civil sanitation for pools and spas, preventing and curing diseases in animal husbandry and fisheries, fruit and vegetable preservation, wastewater treatment, as an algicide for recycled water in industry and air conditioning, in anti shrink treatment for woolens, for treating seeds and in organic chemical synthesis.

Trichloroisocyanuric acid as used in swimming pools is easier to handle than chlorine gas. It dissolves slowly in water, but as it reacts, cyanuric acid concentration in the pool will build-up.

See also[edit]

• Dichloroisocyanuric acid (Dichlor)

References[edit]

1. ^Hiegel, G. A. (2001). 'Trichloroisocyanuric Acid'. Encyclopedia of Reagents for Organic Synthesis, 8 Volume Set. Encyclopedia of Reagents for Organic Synthesis. New York: John Wiley & Sons. doi:10.1002/047084289X.rt209. ISBN0471936235.
2. ^Barros, J. C. (2005). 'Trichloroisocyanuric acid'. Synlett. 2005 (13): 2115–2116. doi:10.1055/s-2005-872237.
3. ^Tilstam, Ulf; Weinmann, Hilmar (July 2002). 'Trichloroisocyanuric Acid: A Safe and Efficient Oxidant'. Organic Process Research & Development. 6 (4): 384–393. doi:10.1021/op010103h.
4. ^Chattaway, F. D.; Wadmore, J. Mello (1902). 'XX.—The constitution of hydrocyanic, cyanic, and cyanuric acids'. J. Chem. Soc., Trans. 81: 191–203. doi:10.1039/CT9028100191.

External links[edit]

Well first, what is pool shock? Shock is a concentrated chemical formula used to increase available or free chlorine when your standard sanitizer (regular chlorine tabs, a salt chlorinator, Nature2, etc) gets behind in its duties. Sanitizers work to oxidize or break down organics and destroy bacteria. But they can become overwhelmed by higher levels of these compounds which rise after an increased bather load (pool party!) or heavy debris from inclement weather.Organics come from many sources – dead skin cells, sweat, sunscreen, dirt, and leaves, to name a few.

These not only muck up your pool but also provide a veritable all-you-can-eat buffet for bacteria and can set the stage for an algae bloom. This is when pool shock comes in to save the day by giving a boost to your sanitizer. Here are the three main types of pool shock, which vary by their chemical composition.Cal-HypoIts full name and main ingredient is calcium hypochlorite.

Cal-Hypo contains chlorine and is available in different concentrations; we carry 68% and 73% which is typical of the ranges you’ll find. It will boost your free chlorine level without increasing cyanuric acid (CYA).

However, since CYA acts as sunscreen for chlorine, you will want to add Cal-Hypo shock in the evening to give it a chance to work without getting hammered by full sun.Cal-Hypo will add calcium along with the chlorine. If the calcium hardness level is already high in your pool, consider an alternate shock. Use with extra care on pool surfaces prone to bleaching, especially vinyl liners. Di-ChlorAlso known as sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione, Di-Chlor is another chlorine-based shock. This is typically recommended for vinyl liner pools as it dissolves rapidly and will not bleach or stain the liner.

It is also safer for fiberglass or painted surfaces for the same reason.Di-Chlor does not add calcium so it’s a good option over Cal-Hypo if you want to use a chlorine shock without increasing hardness. Oxidizer (Non-Chlorine)Potassium monopersulfate is an oxidizer comprised of potassium salt. There is no chlorine in this type of shock and it does not kill bacteria. So what’s the point?

When there is a high level of organic waste in the pool, the available chlorine is used up attacking that, giving bacteria free reign to grow. Non-chlorine shock oxidizes the organics and helps clarify pool water. This allows the free chlorine to do its job of attacking bacteria and algae instead.Some people prefer to limit the use of chlorine due to health concerns. Non-chlorine shock is not as powerful as Cal-Hypo or Di-Chlor but provides an effective alternative.Whatever type of pool shock you decide to use, be sure to carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions to protect yourself and your pool. And if you can’t get enough of the joy of pool maintenance, then check out our many on this very subject. Hello.I am looking for answer.I ake care of 2 commercial pools at a resort.I do it for my rent.On one pool we use Non chlorine shock with 3 incn tablets.When we take water test it takes awhile before I get a Chlorine level.Using a taylor test kit.It 40.000 gallon pool.2 haywary ec 65 filter with each having there own pump.The second pool is turning a little green Ph is 7.6 alk 140 calcium.We use zappit 73% shock with Di Chlore tablets.We are using 2 500 lb sand filters with one 2 Ho super pump.It stay clear up to the middle of july then get a green tint.Please Help.

Shocking is just “super chlorinating” at high levels to deal with a quick or more intense need to sanitize like when your Chlorine level got to low and or you are forming algae. Some people use it routinely every week but Matthew is right, if you keep your pool sanitized and balanced at the right levels under normal use and conditions you shouldn’t need to shock unless your test is showing CC (Combined Chlorine) is high.

Checking your chemicals every other day or two at the most is preferable to one a week to insure you maintaining a balanced pool through out the week. I just use liquid chlorine at shock levels to avoid all the CYA, Calcium or Bromine after effects if I have to shock.

I have a 40K gallon gunite pool. I put in a salt water system 3 years ago and have changed the cell. Generally i have issues with free chlorine and sometimes a very high phosphate level.

I think I need to shock more often and I would like to add tablets to my skimmer. I never know which tablets or shock to buy. Can you please advise? Should I use. Should I use Di-Chlor, Cal-Hypo, or Oxidizer. Also how many hours should I run filter? Some people say in the summer they run all day.

I live in New Jersey. If you are having issues with free chlorine, the shock to use would be Cal-Hypo. The most common issue that causes low Free Chlorine is an algae bloom. The second is high CYA. If you want a more longterm solution to free CYA levels, drain a quarter of your water to bring them down. Once CYA is added to your pool, it doesn’t leave the water unless you drain it. Also, if you want to know how long you need to run your pool, visit here: It gives you the steps and info needed for you to calculate run times for yourself.

My husband and I have a roughly 20,000 gallon in-ground pool (our previous owner didn’t leave any documentation on the pool, so our measurements are estimated from measurements). Our local pool store analyzed our water and said everything was great, we just needed to up the chlorine via shocking the pool. So we added the store recommended 4 lbs of Fresh N Clear oxidizing shock to our pool this early evening and within a couple hours, our light greenish-blue pool water turned a cloudy, mucky brown. In addition to the chemical issue, our pool lines now seem to have air pockets that weren’t there earlier this morning before we added the oxidizing shock; not sure if this is related to the chemicals we added or if it’s a separate issue. We have cleared the skimmer baskets, strainer basket, and the impeller seems clear. Not sure what else we should do and we’re worried we’ve made things worse. We’re new pool owners here and we’re struggling to get what seems to be the “right” information by anyone on how to operate and maintain our pool.

Thanks in advance! Hi, We have a 23,000 gallon vinyl lined pool, it’s February in Alabama & the weather has been typical souther winter a few days at 75, then a few at 35, a lot of rain this winter. We do not close out pool for winter & have a weekly service come. Lately (the last 3 – 4 weeks) we have had a white “fluff” or sediment of some sort on the floor of the pool.

Our serviceman vacuums it up on Monday (and the water clouds somewhat), but by Wednesday each week the water clears and the sediment is back on the pool floor. I have a Lamott 2056 “Color-Q” Pro 7 digital test kit. Today it’s 46.

w/ a low of 26 tonight, my numbers are: FC.43, TC.60, pH 7.3, TA 87, CYA 99 (!!). (I have asked the pool guys if we should drain pool water, as the CYA has been high since summer, but they say it should be fine, and even though I ask them not to use tabs, they still fed that chlorinator all summer long!My question is, do you think the sediment is related to the CYA? This is the first year the sediment has appeared, but honestly our old serviceman retired in June last year & it was then that we finally got our own test kit and a new pool service company, so not sure how long the CYA has been this high. It was high over the summer, but I don’t know about last year.I also realize it’s winter here, but with our air temps being so variable (It goes from 75.

Free whmcs license key generator for sale. some days to 40. within one week, back and forth all winter), is it possible we have an algae bloom in the making (with the chlorine being so low)? Could the algae start to grow and then die off in the cold that quickly?Can you give me steps to take now to avoid issues in the spring? What products would you recommend? I have a 27,000 gallon pool that just got a new vinyl liner. Water delivery was not an option, so we started off with ground water. We had copper and iron in the water and used metal out, which got rid of the copper.

After the metal out, we shocked with 2 lbs. Sodium dichlor two days in a row. We have gone through a range of colors, but as of now the water is a murky yellowish/green color. My most recent water test after takingthe above steps was:free chlorine-0.17total chlorine-0.17combined chlorine-0ph-7.3hardness-71alkalinity (w/stabilizer correction)-33cyanuric acid-9copper-0iron-0.2Following these results we added 30 lbs of sodium bicarbonate, and have been told to shock again with 5-6 lbs.

We have been using sodium dichlor because we don’t want to damage the new liner. Are these the correct steps to take or should I be using cal-hypo shock?Help!! I am new to all of this and trying to help my parents get their pool in order.

Calcium hardness needs to be stable between 200-400 ppm, once that is achieved TA (total alkalinity ) needs to be 80-100 ppm. After those numbers have been achieved your PH (7.4 – 7.6 is ideal range) will be stable and you can adjust your chlorine levels,.17 is way to low for free chlorine. You need at least 1 ppm in chlorine; 3 ppm being ideal.

Once all that is achieved you can then shock the pool to kill what sounds like organic material or algae, this could also be caused by a filtration issue, but your water is very out of balance with the readings you posted. Balance your water, check the filtration system and shock only after that is done.